Today is: Sunday, May 28, 2017
Susan Feniger's Street Restuarant Review
Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken are truly genius. In her new Street, a hypercool restaurant in the space that once housed the coffeehouse Highland Grounds. Feniger, in her solo debut, revisits some of those transglobal ideas but with a direct, accessible twist. Cumin-scented millet puffs are brought to the table instead of bread and butter, and if that sounds like a good idea to you, Street, especially the comfortable
patio abutting the fire pit, may become your new favorite restaurant.
Street is a restaurant that features the world street food, snacks and savories from every part of Asia, Korean-style mung bean pancakes studded with bits of anise-braised pork belly; hollow, potato-stuffed Indian ping-pong balls called paani puri, moistened with a bit of spicy broth; a juniper-laced salad of roasted beets and crumbled walnuts; even a take on the classic Singaporean breakfast dish of toast
with coconut-jam kaya and a runny egg. There are dense dal fritters, a delicious version of the do-it-yourself Thai bundles of roasted coconut, bird chiles,
peanuts, tamarind jam and minced lime, among other things, sensibly
wrapped in bits of collard instead of the traditional betel leaf.
The restaurant is a clever re-imagining of the traditional brasserie with a distinctly International and cheeky twist. With playful renditions of bistro classics elevated
to \the heights of decadence using inventive, seasonal ingredients. For the daring imbiber, Street’s “Absinthe-Minded” cocktails transport the drinker to
Lautrec’s Paris and help complete the ambiance of street chic.
Half the menu is vegan-friendly, although you probably wouldn’t notice that fact unless it was important to you, and at least as much attention seems to have been paid to the roster of rare beers, and to the spiced lassis and various chilled coolers as to the
short but appropriate wine list. This is a restaurant that understands Hollywood.
This seasonal freshness permeates all of Street’s dishes. The Indian VadaDumplings, with crispy fritters topped with yogurt sauce, mint sauce, and tamarind date chutney, is delicious, we noticed that everyone was tasting, and we love it, it was truly delicious.
Also the Japanese Shizo Shrimp, arrive to the table as if blooming from the center
of their plate, the delicate tempura-battered shrimps radiating upward like new
spring buds searching for sunlight. The dish is light and airy: the subtle buttery
flavor of the tempura blends delightfully with the soft sweetness of the
shrimp meat. As my companion and I mop up the remainder of
this dish, it is clear that this appetizer
is a favorite.
Another appetizers were also divine such as the cuban Stuffed
Potato Cake, filled with spiced beef, raisins, and capers with tomato mint
salsa and poblano crema. The Cantonese White Radish Cake with
Chinese sweet sausage; topped with a fried egg and served with
soy sauce and garlic chile pesto, was a great dish as well.
The healthful, invigorating effect of these appetizers inspires thoughts of
a future return to Street for their happy hour, where select light
and refreshing appetizers are
offered, a sophisticated and
inspired alternative to the usual greasy bar fare.
Another great ones to not be missed; the Kaya Toast, a uniquely Singapore experience; toasted bread spread thick with coconut jam, served with a boiled
egg drizzed in dark soy and pepper and the Paani Puri, small tastes of spiced
potato, chutney, and beans, enclosed in a crispy puffs of dough dipped in
yogurt cilandro water, I loved this dish, for its taste and for being so light.
Street’s thoughtful blend of haute cuisine and farmhouse comfort is epitomized in the Malaysian Black Pepper Clams, served on Singapore’s eatern coast; clams simmered in oyster sauce with cracked black pepper, palm sugar, soy and lime. Meaty chunks of clam are assembled in a rustic pile over a pool delicious spices. Two pieces
of bread are served to dig in and taste the delicious juice, adding a
unique note of epicurean finesse to the dish.
From the Wood Oven…The heady aroma of the Korean Barbequeud Shortribs in
the air precedes the dish, a rich, gamey and herby scent that immediately fires up
my salivary glands. The taste and visual presentation live up to the dish’s olfactory promises. A flanken style in asian pear rice wine marinade; served with asian pear salad and roasted enoki mushrooms. This dish is an exercise in juxtaposition: the distinct flavors of enoki mushrooms unexpectedly complement one another and
never overpower. The first bite distinguishes itself from previous shortribs, the
meat with its smooth, almost velvety texture contrasts dynamically with allspice
that recalls the pear salad beautifully. This complex and nuanced dish is
a surprising adventure and an exploration in sublime satisfaction.
The Turkish Doughnut is a pleasant finale to the meal, its light, delicate flavor a refreshing palate cleanser, they were friend and served with a sour cream and
rose hip jam. We also tasted the Egyptian Babousa Cake, a lime semolina
cake with blueberries. It is a gratifying summation of our experience, a
distillation of Chef Feninger’s masterful translation of simple
farm freshness to haute cuisine sophistication.
As we leave Street behind and return to the commotion of Highland Street, I am shaken from my satiated reverie as if waking from a dream. My enchanting culinary escapade is over and I am left only with the lingering flavor of Street’s garden
of earthly delights and the ethereal memory of my adventure. I close my eyes,
like a dreamer trying to retreat back into the warmth of sleep, savoring
the magic and romance of my Street Restaurant experience.
For map and location click Here!
For more information please visit their website at www.eatatstreet.com
Article By: Mary Adams
Photos By: Chris Marx
|© 2013-2015 Buzz of Los Angeles (All Rights Reserved)